24 July 2020

Couture 2.0

The pandemic’s ban on travel and gatherings has caused a commotion in the fashion schedule.

July’s Haute Couture Fashion Week goes digital for the first time. The good news? Everyone gets front row seats!

Photo from Dior with kind permission.

At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s concept for the season was Théâtre de la Mode. In 1945 Paris fashion designers exhibited doll-sized clothes to raise funds for war survivors and help revive the fashion industry amid the devastation of World War II.

Chiuri enlisted the Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone to create a short film entitled Le Mythe Dior to showcase these miniature creations. In the surrealist and fantastical movie, couriers bring a trunk of mannequins to the woods for nymphs, mermaids and statues to choose from. As if by magic, the couture atelier transforms them into real garments for the mythological creatures to wear.

 

Photo from Dior with kind permission.

Photo from Ralph & Russo with kind permission.

Ralph & Russo collection is bold and colourful, with vibrant hues of yellow, fuchsia and lavender. Tamara Ralph took inspiration from floral and nature and digitised these to create blurred technical effects to print on the fabrics.

Due to the current situation, the brand decided to create an avatar called Hauli, whose name symbolises strength and power. In a virtual fashion shoot, Hauli travelled to the seven wonders of the world, showcasing some garments against striking settings.

 

Photo from Ralph & Russo with kind permission.

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria collection is dedicated to the Italian “Bella Vita” as a way of life, made of good food, beauty and flavour.

The inspiration came from the 50’s and 60’s jet setters, who vacationed in Italy and made Capri, Portofino and Cinque Terre the iconic spots they are today. The collection sees destination scarves made into a variety of dresses, most notably kaftans.

Although Dolce & Gabbana already presented the haute couture show behind closed doors, on the 2nd of September, they will exhibit the garments in Florence, on a real runway with a real audience.

Photo from Dolce & Gabbana with kind permission.

Photo from Valentino with kind permission.

Haute Couture season ended with Valentino presenting the collection in Rome with a local audience in attendance.

The show called The Performance: of Grace and Light, a dialogue between Pierpaolo Piccioli and Nick Knight begins with a pre-recorded glitchy video by Knight, in which models swing from trapezes while projections of flowers and feathers play over meters-long gowns. The curtains then draw back to reveal the models balanced on ladders in a motionless scene. Their dresses are now revealed to be all-white draping to the floor.

 

Photo from Valentino with kind permission.

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